Monuments men for real

If you saw the movie Monuments Men, you may remember that it tells the story of art historians, curators, and museum directors during World War II who set out to rescue and preserve works of art and cultural artifacts stolen by the Nazis. They were in a race against Hitler’s “Nero Decree” that ordered the destruction of anything of value to prevent it from falling into Allied hands. This collection of civilians from 13 different countries, generally not trained as soldiers, worked side-by-side with the military to locate, protect, and recover the looted treasures. We knew that the film was based on true events but we had no idea that our own local Fine Arts museum was connected with the restoration and repatriation effort.

Continue reading “Monuments men for real”

Niort, Niort, what a wonderful town

Just like the sailors in the Broadway musical, “On the Town”, who sang of New York, “We’ve got one day here and not another minute to see the famous sights!”, Bill and I had the same in  Niort. We were spending the week in nearby Poitiers with chances to visit a few other towns in the area. Adding to our collection of blog posts with “pun-ny” names like the one about asparagus from northwest France called “Brittany Spears” and the springtime fruits of “Kumquat May”, today’s story title was inevitable. With the song lyrics promising, “We’ll find the romance and danger waiting in it…” we were off on a new adventure.

Continue reading “Niort, Niort, what a wonderful town”

TV picture perfect: Chauvigny & Parthenay

Whenever we’re watching our favorite French TV travel show, Les 100 lieux qu’il faut voir (The 100 Places You Must See), Bill keeps his phone handy for two reasons. When a destination looks interesting, he first locates it on an online map to determine if there is a train station in town and if so, he then adds it to our ever-growing list entitled, “Want to Go”. While that initial map check lets us know if we can get there on public transportation, it doesn’t always guarantee that it will be on a train. Despite a train station building still existing, the tracks might no longer be in use and often now serves instead as the central bus stop. Such was the case for two towns around Poitiers, where we were staying for a week to discover that area of the country.

Continue reading “TV picture perfect: Chauvigny & Parthenay”

Poitiers as home base

Whenever we vacation in a new part of the country, we always book accommodations in a central location in the area that we’re going to explore. That way it’s easy to make day trips to the surrounding destinations and still be back “home” in time for an apéro and dinner. Staying near the train station has at least 2 advantages: you don’t have far to go to catch your train for your day out and the station is often close to or in downtown near the sites you want to see in your base city. A third advantage in Poitiers, at least, is that the station is multimodal; that is, you can catch a train, a long distance bus, or the city bus, all in the same location. For this trip that was important because 2 of the towns we were going to visit are served only by motorcoach. More on those starting next week but first we wanted to discover the “City of a Hundred Steeples”.

Continue reading “Poitiers as home base”

French-by-number

Do you remember paint-by-number kits growing up? It was always a fun gift to receive because year to year you would get a few more colors and a more complex “work of art” to create. You might begin with 7 mini-pots of paint for a simple rainbow, move on to a dozen colors for a landscape or birds in flight, graduating to twice that many choices for a spring garden scene. Now I see that you can even design, print, and paint your own canvas with 60 colors. While those were fun, creative activities, the end result always seemed to be the same: it looked like a paint-by-number masterpiece; that is, you achieved your goal but it remained unpolished. What if you applied a similar principle to learning French?

Continue reading “French-by-number”

Contemporary art in Carcassonne

All this time I’d been thinking that Bill and I didn’t like modern art. It took the opening of the Centre d’Art Contemporain (Contemporary Art Center) here in Carcassonne for us to realize that some of our favorite painters from 150 years ago fall into the “modern” category. We’re especially fond of impressionism with artists such as Monet, Renoir, and Pissaro all having exhibited their works in Paris at the Impressionist Exhibitions from 1874 to 1886. Modern art, encompassing a break with tradition, emphasizing individuality and innovation, lasted from the 1860s to the 1960s. With this latest addition to the growing list of city-sponsored art exhibit spaces in town, we were about to learn some more history and culture.

Continue reading “Contemporary art in Carcassonne”

Roman ruins in Orange

When I was preparing for my French citizenship interview, one of the sources that I studied was the Livret du Citoyen, the government’s official publication for those who wish to become naturalized citizens. It highlights the country’s principles, values, language, culture, and history. In that last category, under “Antiquity”, the booklet mentions the arrival of the Romans around 50 BC and shows a photo of the theater in Orange that’s still standing—and in use—after 2,000 years, today’s featured photo across the top above. We’d visited other cities like Nîmes and Lyon that have substantial Roman ruins but since Orange was included in this authoritative text as an essential piece of history, we quickly added that to our “must see” list.

Continue reading “Roman ruins in Orange”