All trains lead to Rome (part 2)

Here are some fun facts about Rome: 250 museums, 400 major monuments, 900 churches, 2000 fountains, and the entire historic center of 14,000 square kilometers (5,400 acres) is a UNESCO World Heritage site. And the biggest secret: while those churches aren’t technically classified as museums, dozens of them house masterpieces by Michelangelo, Caravaggio, and Bernini that you can view entirely for free. Although we were first-time visitors to the Eternal City, it already felt familiar, so we were hoping to explore some of the places that don’t immediately come to mind when you think of Rome. Last time on the blog we talked about the ancient center and now we’ll look at some Renaissance and Baroque areas before crossing the Tiber river.

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All trains lead to Rome (part 1)

We’ve crisscrossed Europe by rail for decades, discovering countless destinations. For us, train travel is all about the convenience: a quick walk to the station, a relaxing ride (often with a picnic lunch!), and arrival just steps from our hotel. Amsterdam, Berlin, Brussels, Lisbon, Madrid—with more to be discovered. We’ve even explored Italian treasures like Milan, Turin, Bari, and Venice; yet, one iconic place remained unseen: the Eternal City. All roads (or in our case, rails) lead to Rome, but somehow, we’d never taken that particular route. We decided to change all of that by embarking on a special train journey from Paris (we joined it in Lyon) to that fabled destination for our 40th anniversary.

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A refreshing break

In honor of today being the first day of summer, is the story of our wintertime visit earlier this year to Luchon in the Pyrenees mountains. It will be one year ago tomorrow when the train line into this ski and thermal baths resort town reopened after a 10-year absence.  We’re always on the lookout for a new part of the country to discover—by train—so this was a great chance to add another destination to our list. Since we seldom see snow where we live, a visit in the winter was going to be ideal.

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Do-it-yourself land cruise: the experience

In the last blog post we talked about our “slow travel” discovery of canal cruising in France. On four different trips, with the barge as our floating hotel, we’ve been on excursions to châteaux, museums, champagne caves, and fascinating historical sites. Back on the boat we enjoyed all of our meals, an open bar, and even learned how to make Chantilly that we might otherwise call whipped cream. While each waterway vacation shared similarities, there were enough differences to make them unique and encourage us to try another. When an advertisement for a trip on the canal de Bourgogne (Burgundy) arrived, we took a look at the port stops and the planned excursions to see if we could arrange something comparable on our own using the train.

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Do-it-yourself land cruise: the inspiration

When we lived in the US, a favorite annual vacation was a week-long cruise in the Caribbean. For one upfront price we could include our accommodation, meals, and drinks. It was possible to add in the cost of excursions in advance as well, but at ports of call we preferred to walk around the harbor or simply stay onboard. After all, we’d already paid for food and beverages and with most of the other passengers out for the day, it felt as if we had the ship to ourselves. After moving to France we discovered canal cruising that was similar to what we had experienced in the Caribbean except instead of being with thousands of other travelers, we shared the floating hotel with only 20 others. When an email announcement of sailing through the “heart of Burgundy, its wines and regional flavors” arrived, it caught our attention.

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Niort, Niort, what a wonderful town

Just like the sailors in the Broadway musical, “On the Town”, who sang of New York, “We’ve got one day here and not another minute to see the famous sights!”, Bill and I had the same in  Niort. We were spending the week in nearby Poitiers with chances to visit a few other towns in the area. Adding to our collection of blog posts with “pun-ny” names like the one about asparagus from northwest France called “Brittany Spears” and the springtime fruits of “Kumquat May”, today’s story title was inevitable. With the song lyrics promising, “We’ll find the romance and danger waiting in it…” we were off on a new adventure.

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TV picture perfect: Chauvigny & Parthenay

Whenever we’re watching our favorite French TV travel show, Les 100 lieux qu’il faut voir (The 100 Places You Must See), Bill keeps his phone handy for two reasons. When a destination looks interesting, he first locates it on an online map to determine if there is a train station in town and if so, he then adds it to our ever-growing list entitled, “Want to Go”. While that initial map check lets us know if we can get there on public transportation, it doesn’t always guarantee that it will be on a train. Despite a train station building still existing, the tracks might no longer be in use and often now serves instead as the central bus stop. Such was the case for two towns around Poitiers, where we were staying for a week to discover that area of the country.

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