To the manor born

There’s a British TV comedy series that inspired today’s blog post title about a week we spent on the north coast of Brittany. In the show, when former mistress of the manor, Audrey, loses her husband, she sells the grand estate to a wealthy businessman but moves into the property’s small lodge house where she can keep an eye on the new owner. We both enjoyed watching it so it wasn’t unexpected when Bill asked me if I wanted to stay in a manor house. What did surprise me however, was that he was investigating a seaside vacation where we could walk along a rocky coast. Could this be the best of both worlds?

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Bamboo-zled

It’s easy to associate food and wine with France, but what about surfing? The Atlantic coast, particularly the southwestern region, is a world-renowned surfing destination with some beaches offering waves as high as 30 meters (100 feet). And while you’re there, take a look at Europe’s tallest sand dune, near Bordeaux, at 100 meters (330 feet) high. Who knew that we have a geyser at Vals-les-Bains that erupts every 6 hours? And now for today’s topic that you might not immediately connect with France—bamboo—and the park dedicated to this prolific plant located within the Cévennes National Park.

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Sleep tourism

When I saw the words “sleep tourism” (le tourisme du sommeil) in our newspaper, I thought that they were talking about “slow travel”. That’s something that Bill and I have embraced since moving to France, now that we no longer need to fly over here from the US, dash around seeing everything we can in 2 weeks, and then immediately fly back. Taking the train over long distances gives us a chance to enjoy the journey, the scenery, the food and wine, the legroom, and arrive downtown within walking distance of our hotel. In fact, since “sleep” was in the title I figured they were talking about overnight trains that are making a real comeback in Europe, giving you a comfortable bed allowing you to wake up in your destination city. We have already covered that topic and the book you see here in this paragraph in previous blog posts. But this new style of travel was something totally different.

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Walking in Lisbon

When we first visited the capital of Portugal a few years ago, we were staying about a 40-minute walk from the waterfront, so we made extensive use of the city’s public transit system. Going downhill was easy enough; however, for getting back up to the equivalent height of a 16-story building, the Metro (subway) was a welcome relief. This time our apartment was closer to the sea so we were able to see much more on foot, with plenty of time to stop along the way to admire the views, the shop windows, and even stop for a coffee or a beer. Thanks to a Rick Steves guidebook we had our own do-it-yourself walking tour of the neighborhoods, complete with maps.

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Bourges in 1 day

How’s this for a travel show’s recommendation for someplace to visit: “one of France’s best-preserved medieval towns” that was followed by scenes of half-timbered buildings, ivy-covered stone walls, meandering cobblestone streets, and a towering 12th-century cathedral. Based on that, it was an easy decision to book the train tickets to go to Bourges while we were in the area, having stayed about an hour away in Orléans after a wedding in Paris. The description came from the France TV 5 program called “Les 100 lieux qu’il faut voir” that we would translate as—and agree with—”The 100 Places that you must see”. 

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The not-so-new Orléans

New Orleans, Louisiana is a favorite US city for us. It’s one of the few places in America where you can walk out of a bar in the French Quarter with a “go-cup” (a plastic cup containing an alcoholic beverage) and not get arrested. The nonchalant atmosphere of the Big Easy gives you a sense of freedom not found in a lot of other locations around the country. With that as a background, we wondered what the original Orléans would be like so we returned to the city where, almost 9 years ago, we spent our first night as permanent residents of France.

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French horreum story

Narbonne is only 30 minutes by train from Carcassonne. We’ve been there several times, usually with friends, since it’s an easy day trip that gets us to another French city for even more culture, food, and history. There’s plenty of that last item given that the Romans founded the colony as Narbo Martius in 118 BC to provide a Mediterranean coast stronghold that could provide ample amounts of olive oil and wine for the empire. About a 25-minute walk from the train station, the city recently opened a large archeological museum with 6,000 artifacts from the Roman era, including sculptures, mosaics, and everyday objects found locally. Right in the heart of downtown, however, is another reminder of those ancient times, L’Horreum, that we went to see underground.

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