Sleep tourism

When I saw the words “sleep tourism” (le tourisme du sommeil) in our newspaper, I thought that they were talking about “slow travel”. That’s something that Bill and I have embraced since moving to France, now that we no longer need to fly over here from the US, dash around seeing everything we can in 2 weeks, and then immediately fly back. Taking the train over long distances gives us a chance to enjoy the journey, the scenery, the food and wine, the legroom, and arrive downtown within walking distance of our hotel. In fact, since “sleep” was in the title I figured they were talking about overnight trains that are making a real comeback in Europe, giving you a comfortable bed allowing you to wake up in your destination city. We have already covered that topic and the book you see here in this paragraph in previous blog posts. But this new style of travel was something totally different.

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Eat less, gain more

Two of our neighbors are vegetarian, or rather were vegetarian. Last Saturday, just before we left for the weekly open-air market they told us not to buy any eggs because they had several for us, along with cheese and milk. We should have guessed why they were giving us these items produced by or from animals and sure enough, when we got home we found out that they are now vegan. The four of us had already enjoyed a vegetarian dinner together but next week we’re having game night at our house so our snacks can’t include dairy, eggs, or even honey since insects are animals and we’re avoiding that connection. Interestingly I had just read a study suggesting that by reducing meat consumption, France could reach its environmental targets.

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Here’s a tip

It’s often around this time of year that most of us think about giving to others. The city of Carcassonne organizes a “Gift for All” program that encourages residents to fill a shoebox with presents that shut-ins, homeless people, and even their dogs might appreciate. For the people who help us during the year, Bill likes to take the time to design gift cards, craft the appropriate message, and then print them so that we can include a cash token of appreciation inside. Refreshingly, the recipients, who might include our postal carrier, the recycle and trash collectors, and our favorite vendors at the Saturday fruit and vegetable marché, are always taken by surprise by this small gesture of thanks. I compared our experience with what others do around Christmas and even with tipping in general the rest of the year.

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Sintra in 1 day

Last week we talked about our most recent visit to Lisbon and today it’s about an inevitable side trip. When we’re researching a possible destination, I always start my Internet search with something like, “Top 10 (insert name of city to visit)” that typically gives us a great list of must-see monuments, museums, and sites to explore in that city. Very often, however, the recommendations will extend beyond the city limits to include tourist spots you can see on a day trip. For the Portuguese capital, everyone included the monastery and tower in Belém, yellow Tram 28, districts like Alfama and Barrio Alto, Ribeira market, and tiled walls. But where is this hilltop fairy tale castle with bright yellow and red towers and crenellations that also appears on so many of the Top 10s and can we walk there? Yes, in about 6 hours, but we thought that taking a tour to Sintra would be a better idea.

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Walking in Lisbon

When we first visited the capital of Portugal a few years ago, we were staying about a 40-minute walk from the waterfront, so we made extensive use of the city’s public transit system. Going downhill was easy enough; however, for getting back up to the equivalent height of a 16-story building, the Metro (subway) was a welcome relief. This time our apartment was closer to the sea so we were able to see much more on foot, with plenty of time to stop along the way to admire the views, the shop windows, and even stop for a coffee or a beer. Thanks to a Rick Steves guidebook we had our own do-it-yourself walking tour of the neighborhoods, complete with maps.

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Bourges in 1 day

How’s this for a travel show’s recommendation for someplace to visit: “one of France’s best-preserved medieval towns” that was followed by scenes of half-timbered buildings, ivy-covered stone walls, meandering cobblestone streets, and a towering 12th-century cathedral. Based on that, it was an easy decision to book the train tickets to go to Bourges while we were in the area, having stayed about an hour away in Orléans after a wedding in Paris. The description came from the France TV 5 program called “Les 100 lieux qu’il faut voir” that we would translate as—and agree with—”The 100 Places that you must see”. 

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The not-so-new Orléans

New Orleans, Louisiana is a favorite US city for us. It’s one of the few places in America where you can walk out of a bar in the French Quarter with a “go-cup” (a plastic cup containing an alcoholic beverage) and not get arrested. The nonchalant atmosphere of the Big Easy gives you a sense of freedom not found in a lot of other locations around the country. With that as a background, we wondered what the original Orléans would be like so we returned to the city where, almost 9 years ago, we spent our first night as permanent residents of France.

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