Coastal charm: Pornic and Le Croisic

Instead of arriving by train, we could have sailed down the Loire River—which runs through Nantes (the city featured in last week’s blog post)—out to the Atlantic Ocean and onward to today’s two destinations. To the south, we’d read that Pornic was “a classic seaside resort town,” with its harbor, beaches, and coastal walks offering a relaxed atmosphere and beautiful scenery. North of there was Le Croisic, a working port town that “provides a more rugged coastal experience,” as you might expect from a fishing harbor and wild coastline. Despite their differences, both towns charmed us, each offering a distinct experience within a similar coastal theme.

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To the manor born

There’s a British TV comedy series that inspired today’s blog post title about a week we spent on the north coast of Brittany. In the show, when former mistress of the manor, Audrey, loses her husband, she sells the grand estate to a wealthy businessman but moves into the property’s small lodge house where she can keep an eye on the new owner. We both enjoyed watching it so it wasn’t unexpected when Bill asked me if I wanted to stay in a manor house. What did surprise me however, was that he was investigating a seaside vacation where we could walk along a rocky coast. Could this be the best of both worlds?

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Sleep tourism

When I saw the words “sleep tourism” (le tourisme du sommeil) in our newspaper, I thought that they were talking about “slow travel”. That’s something that Bill and I have embraced since moving to France, now that we no longer need to fly over here from the US, dash around seeing everything we can in 2 weeks, and then immediately fly back. Taking the train over long distances gives us a chance to enjoy the journey, the scenery, the food and wine, the legroom, and arrive downtown within walking distance of our hotel. In fact, since “sleep” was in the title I figured they were talking about overnight trains that are making a real comeback in Europe, giving you a comfortable bed allowing you to wake up in your destination city. We have already covered that topic and the book you see here in this paragraph in previous blog posts. But this new style of travel was something totally different.

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Walking in Lisbon

When we first visited the capital of Portugal a few years ago, we were staying about a 40-minute walk from the waterfront, so we made extensive use of the city’s public transit system. Going downhill was easy enough; however, for getting back up to the equivalent height of a 16-story building, the Metro (subway) was a welcome relief. This time our apartment was closer to the sea so we were able to see much more on foot, with plenty of time to stop along the way to admire the views, the shop windows, and even stop for a coffee or a beer. Thanks to a Rick Steves guidebook we had our own do-it-yourself walking tour of the neighborhoods, complete with maps.

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When’s our next trip?

Bill and I started making annual trips to Europe soon after we met. Because I was working for a British company at the time, those vacations were initially limited to within the UK. Sometimes, however, we were “daring” enough to venture across the Channel for a day trip to the coast of France that we eventually extended into Paris (Notre Dame in this photo) and beyond. With our discovery of self-catering holiday rentals, we could base ourselves in a town or village (like Saint-Jean-de-Côle above) and pretend for a week or so that we lived there. Given that we’ve been French residents for over 8 years, that idea obviously stuck with us. Those short visits always ended with a longing to return, typically discussing our next make-believe location on the flight back to the US. Based on a survey of other travel-loving Americans, we’re not alone.

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Two day trips from Toulouse

By a fast train we live only about 45 minutes from Toulouse yet we decided to spend a few nights there to make a couple of day trips centered around the “Pink City” so named because of the color of its bricks. That way we didn’t have to start out as early, we could spend the day at a destination, and still get back to the hotel in time for an apéro before dinner. Taking some of our own advice, we clicked on the tab above marked “Topics & Tags” then “Destinations in France accessible by train” and scrolled down to “The Beautiful Small Towns around Toulouse” to find a list of 20 possibilities, including our own Carcassonne. Of the remaining 19 towns, we’d already visited 8 of them and we didn’t want to spend much more than an hour on the train so that left us with Gaillac at 40 minutes and at 67 minutes a town that wasn’t even on this list, Castres.

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Let’s go to the beach

If you click on the “Shop” button on the website for travel guidebook publisher Lonely Planet they will tell you that you can browse through 765 products. One of their books for this year is called “Best Beaches: 100 of the World’s Most Incredible Beaches” and when I saw that three of those were in France I had to find out where they were located. Recognizing that beaches aren’t a one-style-fits-all destination, the editors included themes such as family friendly, snorkeling, remote, crowded but worth it, and wildlife. We weren’t surprised at their first seaside choice for this country.

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