Along the US coasts we’ve been from Key West, Florida to Maine’s border with Canada, from Vancouver, BC to Tijuana, Mexico and in the UK it was from Land’s End in England to the top of Scotland’s mainland at John o’Groats. In France we’ve traveled from the Pyrenees Mountain tunnel that joins us to Spain all the way up to Roubaix on the edge of Belgium. Now we can add one more border-to-border journey to our list, this time in the country of Luxembourg from Esch-sur-Alzette in the south to Troisvierges in the north. In America we were in a car while on this side of the Atlantic it’s been by train, as was this most recent vacation, but this time there was one big difference—the cost. The fare to go from one end of one of Europe’s smallest (but wealthiest) countries to the other end was 0 €.

Since 2020, all public transport in Luxembourg—trains (in 2nd class), buses, trams—has been free for everyone, residents and visitors. The idea was to ease traffic congestion, reduce pollution, and make it easier for those of modest income to work in the capital but live affordably elsewhere.  For today’s post we used just the transportation within Luxembourg City itself and next time we’ll talk about the day trips we took from there into the countryside.

Situated on a high peak overlooking the valley below, the city of Luxembourg was always in a coveted position only enhanced, first by a castle in 963, and later by extensive rock face and underground fortifications. Over the centuries the conquering armies included the Burgundians, the French, the Spanish, the Austrians, and the Germans until 1867 when the Grand Duchy gained its freedom. It was in this subterranean defense system of tunnels and carved galleries called the Bock Casements that we began our tour. While there are 17 kilometers (10 miles) of passageways that once protected soldiers, their horses, and civilians alike, we were happy to explore just a sample and take in the views across the valley from some of the cliffside openings. We emerged to find that we’d be walking below that centuries old castle that now stands in ruins.

The Cathedral Notre-Dame was completed by the Jesuits in 1621 and while it does have stained glass and some statues and sculptures, it maintains a subdued atmosphere in keeping with the religious order’s style. Less than five minutes from there we were standing in front of the Palais Grand-Ducal (photo in 1st paragraph) that was built in 1573 as City Hall but taken over in 1890 by the royal family as their official residence. Had we been there later this summer during the family’s vacation we could have toured inside but we were content with taking some exterior photos.

After a morning of sightseeing, what better way to revitalize yourself than a visit to Chocolate House Nathalie Bonn, right across from the Royal Palace. Known especially for their “Hot Chocolate Spoons”, these are solid blocks of chocolate (56 flavors) on a wooden spoon meant to be stirred into a cup of hot milk. Experience says that they just as easily melt on the tongue. 

Our explorations had so far been in the upper part of the city (Ville Haute) so to finish off our touring we walked down to the river level (today’s featured photo above) into a neighborhood called Grund. Said to be a “village within the city” we found cobblestone streets, stone buildings reflecting its 14th-century heritage, and plenty of restaurants, clubs, and bars. The final stop was at the Benedictine Neumünster Abbey from 1688, currently used as an arts center although it has also been an orphanage, police station and prison, including for Resistance fighters during World War II.

Next time, we’ll be back to venture into the Luxembourg countryside to see the cities of Vianden and Clervaux all via the free trains and buses.