When Cherri and Ed asked us if we wanted to ride with them “into the Minervois” the answer was an easy, “Yes, please!” It’s a major wine region that begins just east of Carcassonne but since the vicinity no longer has any train stations, traveling in their rental car was going to be ideal. Our destination for this day out was the area’s historical capital, Minerve, a fortified medieval village located cliffside high above the canyons of the two rivers below. The bonus was that it’s a member of the organization “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France” that highlights especially beautiful communities throughout the country.

The ancient Romans were in this part of France from the 1st century BC and likely named the area and its capital after their goddess Minerva for whom they built a temple within the town walls. The existing 11th century church of St. Etienne is believed to have been built upon the ruins of that temple.

Near the church is a monument called the “Stèle de Minerve” that memorializes the 140 Cathars who, in 1210, refused to renounce their own religion and adopt Catholicism. They had fled here from the devastating massacre of thousands in Beziers the previous year. Unfortunately they could not escape the Pope’s crusading forces who had followed them and they were burned at the stake.

Just as when we’ve visited a few of the other 182 members of “The Most Beautiful Villages of France”, their status seems to us to center more on their ambiance rather than on specific historic sites. Consequently, we next chose to simply wander along the cobblestone streets, admiring the honey-colored buildings, peeking into artisan shops, and tasting local wine while awaiting our reservation for lunch.

We’d read that one of the rivers below had carved out natural tunnels and bridges through the limestone rock and that you could walk through some of these. There was a path leading down to the riverbed but knowing that we already had an uphill climb from the village itself to get back to the car, we were content with the view we had of the gorge beneath us.

Walking back along the ramparts towards the exterior parking lot where visitors are asked to park, we passed by the “Candela”, meaning “candle” in the local Occitan language. This is a thin octagonal tower that is the last remaining vestige of the 13th-century castle that was mostly dismantled in 1636. This provided a great parting view of this beautiful village.