Someday we’ll have to publish a post about some of the French village names that sound funny to native English speakers. There could be a mature-audiences-only version but we’d prefer to keep it G-rated by including Sassy, Misery, or taking a train trip where you might be “Going to Die”. One dear to my heart, of course, would be seeing “Billy” that’s actually near the two towns in today’s post, although it no longer has an active station. Last week we talked about our time in Vichy and since we had the chance to take a couple of day trips it sounded like fun to visit a place called Nevers and how could we go wrong with what one guide calls Moulins: “a charming city that beautifully blends history, culture, and art.” These gargoyles agree.

Having visited the town of Lourdes, we were familiar with the legend that Bernadette Soubirous saw an apparition of the Virgin Mary there in 1858. What we didn’t know is that to live a quieter life away from the pilgrimage crowds, she joined a convent in Nevers where she stayed until her death in 1879. Her body was then preserved, incorporating some wax coverings for aesthetic purposes, and is still on display in the former convent’s chapel, now known as Espace Bernadette Soubirous Nevers.

Crossing the city’s park that was used for duels in the 9th century, took us to the 13th century Cathédrale Saint-Cyr that houses a painting from the 1100s plus tombs from the 1400s in the crypt. Standing on this church’s front steps we could see over to another historical seat of power, the Palais Ducal. It was from this palace that the Dukes of Nevers ruled from the mid-15th century until the last-surviving duke sold the building to the city in 1810. Interestingly, while we have been to many well-known Loire Valley castles (such as Chambord and Chenonceau) this palace is apparently considered the first of the great Loire Valley châteaux.

Like most medieval cities, Nevers was once encircled by a thick, stone wall, part of which still survives, stretching up from the Loire River and terminating at the gate, Porte du Croux (there’s a wider view as today’s featured photo across the top). In the 14th century this still had a drawbridge although today only the holes for the chains remain. This was a fitting passageway for us on our return to the train station and to our next stop.

In only half an hour on the train back towards Vichy we were in Moulins-sur-Allier named for the mills (moulins) that once lined the Allier river. Little remains of those grain grinding machines that lasted from at least the year 990 until 19th century steam power and then electricity took over. Enriched by the wealth of its mills, the city became the seat of the Dukes of Bourbon beginning in the 14th century. Two towers are still standing from that period: the half-timbered Mal Coiffée Keep from the Ducal medieval castle and the Jacquemart Tower, once part of the city’s walls and gate, that still has its automated figures that chime the hour.

We always enjoy wandering through the “old town” parts of French cities that typically have cobbled streets and half-timbered houses and, as in Moulins, many historic buildings. The 15th century cathedral was funded, in part, by the Dukes who were rewarded by having stained-glass windows depicting their family members displayed in the church. Across a park from there is Maison Mantin, a 19th-century mansion that looks exactly as it did when the last owner died in 1905. To end our day we went to the Grand Café, a beautiful 1899 Art Nouveau café where entertainer Gabrielle Chanel adopted the first name “Coco” from a song that the audiences liked especially well. When not performing, she worked as a seamstress that would provide the skills for her future in fashion.

So, while some might “never say Nevers” we’ll go with “always” to visiting other French towns as charming as these.