Never say Nevers + Moulins-sur-Allier

Someday we’ll have to publish a post about some of the French village names that sound funny to native English speakers. There could be a mature-audiences-only version but we’d prefer to keep it G-rated by including Sassy, Misery, or taking a train trip where you might be “Going to Die”. One dear to my heart, of course, would be seeing “Billy” that’s actually near the two towns in today’s post, although it no longer has an active station. Last week we talked about our time in Vichy and since we had the chance to take a couple of day trips it sounded like fun to visit a place called Nevers and how could we go wrong with what one guide calls Moulins: “a charming city that beautifully blends history, culture, and art.” These gargoyles agree.

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Vichy and the Belle Époque

Although Vichy has been on our “must visit” list for years, I was reluctant to go because of the city’s connection to Nazi Germany. French Marshal Philippe Pétain, leading an autocratic government during World War II, dismantled the democratic institutions of the French Third Republic and consolidated power by creating a cult of personality around himself. His government, based in Vichy, collaborated with Hitler’s regime by imposing a police state controlled by censorship and propaganda. Luckily that ended 80 years ago, leaving behind a city where the painful memories of that era remain, but the beautiful Belle Époque architecture endures.

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Aix-en-Provence + the Calanques

Both of us were convinced that we’d already visited Aix-en-Provence, most likely on a quick visit to the area years ago. We’d been on a sleepless overnight flight from NY to Paris, a speedy train south, and still under the influence of jetlag early the next morning, a rail trip out into the countryside of Provence. As always, we took lots of photos but it was only upon returning to the US while reviewing our vacation pictures did we realize that we’d been to Arles and Avignon but not to that third “A” town, Aix. To remedy that, we scheduled a return stay in Marseille as home base with a bonus boat ride to the National Park of the Calanques.

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Voiron and Clelles

We live between two mountain ranges, the Pyrenees to the south and the Black Mountain to the north but we are seldom in either because there aren’t any rail tracks to take us there. If you saw last week’s blog post, you’ll know that we were spending the week in Grenoble, a city that is sometimes called the Capital of the Alps. Given that we were in the middle of one of the world’s most famous mountain ranges, it made sense to see where we could go by train. Although I can’t say that either of us knew anything about the towns of Voiron or Clelles (featured photo above, across the top), at least thanks to France TV we had an idea of the beautiful scenery we could expect to see.

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A monumental deal

Many internet sites agree that in France there are approximately 45,000 châteaux, a category that can include castles, manor houses, large estates, and smaller fortified residences. The French government has a formal, legal classification of Monuments Historiques that includes some of these châteaux plus, perhaps, another 40,000 historically significant churches, abbeys, prehistoric sites, Roman ruins, bridges, and fortifications, for example. Narrowing that down further, there are about 100 of these properties across the country that are managed by the Ministry of Culture’s Centre des Monuments Nationaux, and thanks to friends and blog readers J & D, we discovered a pass that gives us entrance to most of these, some of which are accessible by train.

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The Périgueux bonus

When we make longer trips by train, we often have to (or choose to) stay overnight in a city along the way. Such was the case when we went to Greece and stopped in Italy and to Ireland with a hotel night in Cherbourg near the ferry port. Even when traveling within France, since Paris is truly a rail hub, the capital is a likely spot to make a connection and thus a prime breaking point for the journey. In all of these cases, the cities where we’ve spent a night or two were not the final destination but were certainly not a waste of time. In fact, just the opposite, and we’ve even returned to some of these in-between cities to spend more time there to see what they have to offer. For us, that’s a bonus, which is exactly what we found in Périgueux. 

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Carcassonne of the north + a favorite village

If you saw last week’s blog post you’ll know that we spent about a week on the northwest coast of France in the Pas-de-Calais departement in the city of Boulogne-sur-Mer. The object was to have some time to visit a part of the country that previously we’d only glimpsed from a railway carriage on our way from London to Paris, initially from a ferry port or years later after passing through the Channel Tunnel on the Eurostar. Once we’ve arrived in a city by train, our favorite method of transport is on foot, so we chose some destinations that were easily walkable from the station.

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