Minerve and the Minervois

When Cherri and Ed asked us if we wanted to ride with them “into the Minervois” the answer was an easy, “Yes, please!” It’s a major wine region that begins just east of Carcassonne but since the vicinity no longer has any train stations, traveling in their rental car was going to be ideal. Our destination for this day out was the area’s historical capital, Minerve, a fortified medieval village located cliffside high above the canyons of the two rivers below. The bonus was that it’s a member of the organization “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France” that highlights especially beautiful communities throughout the country.

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Marseille soap

If you’re in Germany and you order a beer, you know that the beverage being served can only contain malt, hops, yeast, and water. That’s thanks to a Bavarian purity law, Reinheitsgebot, from 1516 that mandated the ingredients. In France, a similar concept applies to bars of Marseille soap; that is, originally only olive oil, plant ash, and water could be used. While the rules now allow other plant oils, manufacturing must still take place in this Mediterranean port city and each product should be stamped with the logo that guarantees its authenticity. We visited the Musée du Savon de Marseille to find out more.

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We siege Liege & Namur

A bit of poetic license gives us today’s title since the Belgian city of Liège actually has an accent grave but “siege” is a true part of its history. Given that there’s evidence of 9000 years of human habitation in the city, there have been plenty of opportunities for invaders to take over, notably in the 15th century and again in WWI. All of those conflicts meant that much of the city has been destroyed over the centuries yet museums have flourished to maintain a link to the past. The guidebook we were following suggested starting with the cathedral since it was one structure that has remained fairly intact and can provide a tangible historic connection.

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Dinant, Belgium in 1 day

After a few days in Luxembourg we took the train across the border into Belgium to explore some cities there. We started with the one that a guidebook described as, “visually stunning” with the bonus of being the hometown of the inventor of the saxophone—an instrument that I played (badly) a long time ago. How could we resist? But with this being Belgium there were bound to be other temptations too such as chocolate, beer, waffles, and fries and we went in search of a local speciality—Couque de Dinant.

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Luxembourg cities

Within the city of Luxembourg we’d had access to all three forms of its free public transit system: bus, tram, and funicular. Now we were going to move out into the country of Luxembourg to visit two historic locations, but like in the previous few days this wasn’t going to cost a centime to get there. The first day would require a train and then a connecting bus to Vianden, that one guide book described as, “…quite simply, the most picturesque little town in the Grand Duchy….” The next day we were on a train for about an hour to medieval Clervaux to see its 12-century castle (its garden view is in this paragraph) and the Benedictine Abbey.

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Luxembourg City

Along the US coasts we’ve been from Key West, Florida to Maine’s border with Canada, from Vancouver, BC to Tijuana, Mexico and in the UK it was from Land’s End in England to the top of Scotland’s mainland at John o’Groats. In France we’ve traveled from the Pyrenees Mountain tunnel that joins us to Spain all the way up to Roubaix on the edge of Belgium. Now we can add one more border-to-border journey to our list, this time in the country of Luxembourg from Esch-sur-Alzette in the south to Troisvierges in the north. In America we were in a car while on this side of the Atlantic it’s been by train, as was this most recent vacation, but this time there was one big difference—the cost. The fare to go from one end of one of Europe’s smallest (but wealthiest) countries to the other end was 0 €.

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Sleeping in a château

My brother and sister-in-law are very generous. Every year they go on a chartered catamaran cruise and always invite us along as their guests. We’ve never taken them up on their offer until this year but it wasn’t on the water. In what you might call a “land cruise” we were being treated to an all-inclusive—accommodation, meals, drinks, and excursions—five days at the 17th century Château Alizés at Le Chaufourg in the Périgord area of southwestern France. Although Bill and I have been lucky enough to have vacationed with friends in three other châteaux around this country and Ireland, on those vacations we all had to do our own cooking, bartending, driving and tour guiding. Now that was all about to change. 

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