Dinant, Belgium in 1 day

After a few days in Luxembourg we took the train across the border into Belgium to explore some cities there. We started with the one that a guidebook described as, “visually stunning” with the bonus of being the hometown of the inventor of the saxophone—an instrument that I played (badly) a long time ago. How could we resist? But with this being Belgium there were bound to be other temptations too such as chocolate, beer, waffles, and fries and we went in search of a local speciality—Couque de Dinant.

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Luxembourg cities

Within the city of Luxembourg we’d had access to all three forms of its free public transit system: bus, tram, and funicular. Now we were going to move out into the country of Luxembourg to visit two historic locations, but like in the previous few days this wasn’t going to cost a centime to get there. The first day would require a train and then a connecting bus to Vianden, that one guide book described as, “…quite simply, the most picturesque little town in the Grand Duchy….” The next day we were on a train for about an hour to medieval Clervaux to see its 12-century castle (its garden view is in this paragraph) and the Benedictine Abbey.

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Luxembourg City

Along the US coasts we’ve been from Key West, Florida to Maine’s border with Canada, from Vancouver, BC to Tijuana, Mexico and in the UK it was from Land’s End in England to the top of Scotland’s mainland at John o’Groats. In France we’ve traveled from the Pyrenees Mountain tunnel that joins us to Spain all the way up to Roubaix on the edge of Belgium. Now we can add one more border-to-border journey to our list, this time in the country of Luxembourg from Esch-sur-Alzette in the south to Troisvierges in the north. In America we were in a car while on this side of the Atlantic it’s been by train, as was this most recent vacation, but this time there was one big difference—the cost. The fare to go from one end of one of Europe’s smallest (but wealthiest) countries to the other end was 0 €.

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Sleeping in a château

My brother and sister-in-law are very generous. Every year they go on a chartered catamaran cruise and always invite us along as their guests. We’ve never taken them up on their offer until this year but it wasn’t on the water. In what you might call a “land cruise” we were being treated to an all-inclusive—accommodation, meals, drinks, and excursions—five days at the 17th century Château Alizés at Le Chaufourg in the Périgord area of southwestern France. Although Bill and I have been lucky enough to have vacationed with friends in three other châteaux around this country and Ireland, on those vacations we all had to do our own cooking, bartending, driving and tour guiding. Now that was all about to change. 

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Monet’s Giverny

One advantage to living in France is that you’re never really all that far from Paris. In about  5 ½ hours we can travel from our downtown train station to one in the nation’s capital and walk from there to a hotel for that evening. With a dozen daily departures we can take our pick to be there for a 12:30 PM lunch, a 3:00 PM hotel check-in, or a 7:00 PM dinner. An overnight sleeper train would arrive in plenty of time for breakfast. That convenience means that it’s possible to make a connection and continue to a further destination such as Brittany, Champagne, or even London or Amsterdam. For today’s adventure we stayed in Paris but made a day trip into Normandy to spend the morning walking in the footsteps of artist Claude Monet in his beloved gardens of Giverny.

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Clisson + the Apocalypse Tapestry

Nantes had served as our home base for a couple of day trips to the Atlantic coast and now it was time to explore a bit more inland. Our travels took us to a picturesque town nicknamed “the Tuscan village of France,” and then on to Angers, home to the world’s largest surviving medieval tapestry. These train journeys were even shorter than the others, only about 30 minutes each, but like the previous ones everything we wanted to see was within a short walking distance from the station. 

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Coastal charm: Pornic and Le Croisic

Instead of arriving by train, we could have sailed down the Loire River—which runs through Nantes (the city featured in last week’s blog post)—out to the Atlantic Ocean and onward to today’s two destinations. To the south, we’d read that Pornic was “a classic seaside resort town,” with its harbor, beaches, and coastal walks offering a relaxed atmosphere and beautiful scenery. North of there was Le Croisic, a working port town that “provides a more rugged coastal experience,” as you might expect from a fishing harbor and wild coastline. Despite their differences, both towns charmed us, each offering a distinct experience within a similar coastal theme.

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