Voiron and Clelles

We live between two mountain ranges, the Pyrenees to the south and the Black Mountain to the north but we are seldom in either because there aren’t any rail tracks to take us there. If you saw last week’s blog post, you’ll know that we were spending the week in Grenoble, a city that is sometimes called the Capital of the Alps. Given that we were in the middle of one of the world’s most famous mountain ranges, it made sense to see where we could go by train. Although I can’t say that either of us knew anything about the towns of Voiron or Clelles (featured photo above, across the top), at least thanks to France TV we had an idea of the beautiful scenery we could expect to see.

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Grenoble & the French Alps

When we’ve been in major US cities such as Denver, Phoenix, and Las Vegas, I was always fascinated by standing on the sidewalk downtown and being able to see the mountains in the distance. Even when we lived in Los Angeles that worked for the San Gabriel range, on a clear day, of course. In Carcassonne we can get a good view of the Pyrenees when we’re over in the medieval walled cité, as the photo in this paragraph illustrates. The view from above the Isère river—a scene like the one in the featured photo across the top above, which Bill would eventually capture himself—was all the motivation we needed to visit Grenoble.

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Countryside trial run

We’ve spoken several times about an organization called Accueil des Villes Françaises or AVF for short that is kind of like a Welcome Wagon for new arrivals in about 250 cities across France. Thanks to our local branch we’ve taken numerous French language courses, volunteered to lead English conversation classes and given the chance to learn painting, dancing, bridge, and cooking. For physical activities there are groups for exercise, historic walking routes, and hiking. The common thread through all of these is that you get to meet local people who are either new themselves or have lived in the area for a while and are anxious to help others settle in their city. This works well for city-dwellers and it appears that now there is a similar group for people who are moving into the countryside.

Le Bugue
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A monumental deal

Many internet sites agree that in France there are approximately 45,000 châteaux, a category that can include castles, manor houses, large estates, and smaller fortified residences. The French government has a formal, legal classification of Monuments Historiques that includes some of these châteaux plus, perhaps, another 40,000 historically significant churches, abbeys, prehistoric sites, Roman ruins, bridges, and fortifications, for example. Narrowing that down further, there are about 100 of these properties across the country that are managed by the Ministry of Culture’s Centre des Monuments Nationaux, and thanks to friends and blog readers J & D, we discovered a pass that gives us entrance to most of these, some of which are accessible by train.

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The Périgueux bonus

When we make longer trips by train, we often have to (or choose to) stay overnight in a city along the way. Such was the case when we went to Greece and stopped in Italy and to Ireland with a hotel night in Cherbourg near the ferry port. Even when traveling within France, since Paris is truly a rail hub, the capital is a likely spot to make a connection and thus a prime breaking point for the journey. In all of these cases, the cities where we’ve spent a night or two were not the final destination but were certainly not a waste of time. In fact, just the opposite, and we’ve even returned to some of these in-between cities to spend more time there to see what they have to offer. For us, that’s a bonus, which is exactly what we found in Périgueux. 

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Passport, ID card, birth certificate

Out of context, if you’d heard today’s blog post title abruptly spoken it might seem that somebody was in big trouble much like a police officer asking for your driver’s license and car registration. However, for those who’ve recently become French citizens, this trio (and more) represents the official welcome package to their new national identity. In June 2021 I submitted my request to become French and in February 2025 my wish was granted. Immediately I applied for the documents mentioned above and within a month they were in my possession. Still, I was hoping for an official ceremony and, sure enough, the invitation for that arrived a month ago, summoning me to the Préfecture (federal building) last week.

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Carcassonne of the north + a favorite village

If you saw last week’s blog post you’ll know that we spent about a week on the northwest coast of France in the Pas-de-Calais departement in the city of Boulogne-sur-Mer. The object was to have some time to visit a part of the country that previously we’d only glimpsed from a railway carriage on our way from London to Paris, initially from a ferry port or years later after passing through the Channel Tunnel on the Eurostar. Once we’ve arrived in a city by train, our favorite method of transport is on foot, so we chose some destinations that were easily walkable from the station.

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