Coastal charm: Pornic and Le Croisic

Instead of arriving by train, we could have sailed down the Loire River—which runs through Nantes (the city featured in last week’s blog post)—out to the Atlantic Ocean and onward to today’s two destinations. To the south, we’d read that Pornic was “a classic seaside resort town,” with its harbor, beaches, and coastal walks offering a relaxed atmosphere and beautiful scenery. North of there was Le Croisic, a working port town that “provides a more rugged coastal experience,” as you might expect from a fishing harbor and wild coastline. Despite their differences, both towns charmed us, each offering a distinct experience within a similar coastal theme.

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Riding an elephant in Nantes

We’d been to Nantes before but only as an overnight stop between trains, never venturing much further than to a hotel right outside of the station. Now we were going to spend a week there, with plenty of time to explore this historic city and discover some of its Breton heritage, from the Château des Ducs de Bretagne to the numerous museums and the beautiful Jardin des Plantes. Given that our vacation apartment was a 5-minute walk from that château, that would have been a logical starting point for our first day but we had loftier plans in mind.  That is, the Great Elephant (featured photo above) at the Machines de l’île, standing 12 meters (39 feet) high, 8 meters (26 feet) wide and 21 meters (69 feet) long!

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In hot water

When we bought our house about 9 years ago, it came with a tankless water heater that had only been installed 5 years prior. This was something new for us because in the US we had always had a tall, well-insulated tank (the bigger, the better) hidden away in a closet, in the basement or in the attic. Now, in the kitchen, in full view, hanging on the wall, was a relatively small box with 5 pipes sticking out of it to supply “endless” hot water to the faucets, shower head, and radiators scattered around the house. It takes a pump to circulate that water upstairs and down and we had already replaced it twice since we had lived here so when that familiar knocking sound returned we knew it was time for a replacement of the heating system.

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Dutch tulips in French fields

We’ve been to the Netherlands a few times and on any of those visits that happened to be in the early spring we were always on the lookout for blooming tulips. In fact, on one trip at exactly this week of the year we went twice to Keukenhof, described as “The most beautiful spring garden in the world”. They showcase 7 million spring-flowering bulbs with probably none better known than the tulip. There are express buses that go directly from downtown Amsterdam to the garden, some passing by endless fields of yellows, reds, pinks, and purples, and maybe even the elusive black flowers. What we didn’t realize until recently was that some of those bulbs that end up in the Netherlands actually start out here in France.

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Marseille in 3 days

One of the nicknames for Chicago is the “Second City” based on its rivalry with New York regarding population, theater, restaurants, food and drink. When we lived there we found it less intimidating and just as vibrant as the “Big Apple”. In a sense, France also has a “Second City” although we’ve never heard of Marseille being referred to that way.  From what we’ve read, however, the residents of this country’s oldest city might argue that it’s just as impressive as Paris. To get a firsthand experience, we spent a few days there last week to check out the historic sites, the museums, the shopping, the neighborhoods, and the general feel.

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To stay or to go

There was a story in the Travel section of the CNN website that generated a lot of conversation within the immigrant/expat community here. Retired couple Joanna and Ed had moved from San Francisco to France in 2023 with the intention of staying here permanently, yet a year later they were preparing to return to the US. They initially tried living in London that they found too expensive but it did allow them to travel extensively in Europe including to Nîmes where, after a 2-month stay, they eventually settled. Joanna said, “We were looking for civility, consideration and little or no gun violence” with this southern city within our own region of Occitanie fitting the bill for them. Unfortunately their challenges began with the first step, getting a visa, and continued after they arrived. Bill and I evaluated each of the issues they encountered and compared those to our own experiences.

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A night at the opera

We’re not opera fans so it surprised me when Bill said that he was ordering tickets to the opulent 19th-century Parisian theater, Opera Garnier. We do enjoy architecture, however, so it all made sense when he explained that in planning for a trip to Paris we would now be going on a guided tour inside the beautiful building that we’d admired from the street in front and from the Galeries Lafayette department store rooftop, 8 stories up. Since we would not be attending a performance, I should probably call the theater by its alternative and perhaps more prestigious-sounding name, the Palais Garnier

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