French villages to (re)visit

Thank you, Sally, for the link to an article in The Telegraph entitled, “France’s 20 greatest villages, ranked and rated.” British journalist Anthony Peregrine lives in Montpellier and has been reporting on France for over 20 years. His articles offer insights into French life, history, and travel as does this one we’re highlighting today. What I liked especially about this story is that he says it covers, “French villages that I get most excited about returning to.” Glancing down his list, there are a few that we’ve been to so we’ll add some photos from those trips with information about new locations to discover.

Continue reading “French villages to (re)visit”

Bucket lists

There’s an online travel information source called “Global Wanderlist” who describe themselves as, “We’re here to fuel your wanderlust with detailed destination guides, must-see attractions, hidden local gems, and travel tips that help you explore more and stress less.” As the company name suggests, they publish lists covering worldwide vacation spots to help you narrow down the choice of where to visit, when to go, plus some tips to make the journey even more enjoyable. They are headquartered in India so their Bucket Lists favor itineraries for that country with intriguing names like Mysore, Spiti, Sikkim, and Lucknow. As exotic as those sound, my attention was drawn to their recommendations for France.

Continue reading “Bucket lists”

Up in smoke

We’re not ones to make New Year’s resolutions but it seems that a popular choice for those who do is to stop smoking. Neither Bill nor I smoke, which has definitely saved us money (in France, a packet of cigarettes costs around 12.50€) and probably some health issues. There’s been a ban on smoking in indoor public places since 2007 yet we’ve traveled on some older trains that still had reminders of those days including ashtrays and “fumeurs” signage. Luckily while we’ve been onboard, no one has risked a 135€ fine for lighting up. Last summer the government extended the prohibition to some outdoor spaces as well, in an effort to protect children from secondhand smoke.

Continue reading “Up in smoke”

La petite Carcassonne

It’s not often that the word little (petite) is used in the same sentence with Carcassonne. After all, with 3 kilometers (nearly 2 miles) of double walls surrounding it, we’re more likely to see descriptions including “Europe’s largest medieval walled city” or “giant fortress”  or even “most formidable fortified city”. That reputation has attracted up to 3 million visitors during an exceptionally busy year, half of whom were from nearby Spain. Historically, it’s that proximity to our former adversary, now ally to the south that required the construction of those protective walls. In fact there’s a string of fortifications along the French/Spanish border that provided security to this area for hundreds of years, including one in the village of Camon, also known as “La petite Carcassonne”.

Continue reading “La petite Carcassonne”

Don’t mention it

My guess is that many of us have been in the following situation, especially around the holidays such as Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day—or maybe all three! You’re at the dinner table with members of your family, many of whom you haven’t seen in a while. Everyone is looking forward to a meal that has been in preparation for hours, plus hearing all the news from your siblings, cousins, aunts and uncles. When there’s a lull in the conversation, someone tries to be helpful and asks for opinions about the latest election, the role of the Church, or why a certain relative chose not to join you that evening. There’s a spontaneous intake of breath, sideways glances, a cough, and a sudden interest in those glasses of wine on the table. It seems that this isn’t unique to the US. According to a survey that was highlighted in our local newspaper, awkward discussions can happen during the fêtes in France as well.

Continue reading “Don’t mention it”

Never say Nevers + Moulins-sur-Allier

Someday we’ll have to publish a post about some of the French village names that sound funny to native English speakers. There could be a mature-audiences-only version but we’d prefer to keep it G-rated by including Sassy, Misery, or taking a train trip where you might be “Going to Die”. One dear to my heart, of course, would be seeing “Billy” that’s actually near the two towns in today’s post, although it no longer has an active station. Last week we talked about our time in Vichy and since we had the chance to take a couple of day trips it sounded like fun to visit a place called Nevers and how could we go wrong with what one guide calls Moulins: “a charming city that beautifully blends history, culture, and art.” These gargoyles agree.

Continue reading “Never say Nevers + Moulins-sur-Allier”

Vichy and the Belle Époque

Although Vichy has been on our “must visit” list for years, I was reluctant to go because of the city’s connection to Nazi Germany. French Marshal Philippe Pétain, leading an autocratic government during World War II, dismantled the democratic institutions of the French Third Republic and consolidated power by creating a cult of personality around himself. His government, based in Vichy, collaborated with Hitler’s regime by imposing a police state controlled by censorship and propaganda. Luckily that ended 80 years ago, leaving behind a city where the painful memories of that era remain, but the beautiful Belle Époque architecture endures.

Continue reading “Vichy and the Belle Époque”