Spontaneity

Bill and I were once accused of not being spontaneous. We were walking in a small French town with some folks who preferred to wander the streets, choosing a restaurant that we might stumble upon rather than going with the one we had already chosen. I’ll reveal the result at the end of this post but just to give you a hint: this was France, in a small town, in the winter, and on a Monday. Blog-reading visitors to Carcassonne, Gayle and Paul, gave us the opportunity (thank you!) to show that we can actually make last-minute decisions when they emailed us asking for dinner recommendations and to invite us for an apéro beforehand. Bill sent them a list and asked when they might be in town. “We’ve just arrived and we’re staying only tonight”, came back the reply. Oh, OK! Happily, only a couple of hours later we were sharing a bottle of rosé with them in a wine garden not far from where they would be eating that evening.

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Vote

When you get a letter that starts out with “It has come to our attention….” it gives you one of those “uh-oh” moments. In this case it was from the Orange County Florida Board of Elections where we are registered to vote. It went on to say that the address we had given them was a business and that in order to vote they would need our residential address. During the first few years that we lived in France, Bill’s sister (thank you, Cheryl) was nice enough to keep track of our postal mail until we could arrange for a mail forwarding service. Once that was in place with our new address we moved our voter registration to Orange County, received our ID cards, and prepared to participate in the next election…until this letter arrived.

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One week on a hotel canal barge

There’s an episode of the PBS TV show, Rick Steves’ Europe, called “Burgundy, Profoundly French” where the host is gliding down a peaceful canal, sipping red wine, while telling us about how calm and serene life onboard can be. We now live within a few minutes’ walk of the Canal-du-Midi and during the season we typically see small house boats navigating the narrow waterway that, in conjunction with the Garonne River, connects the Atlantic Ocean with the Mediterranean Sea. If a family has rented the boat, usually one of the parents is at the helm and in our minds, at least, wondering when their next challenge will arrive: the lock that they themselves might have to operate to get to the next higher or lower level of the canal, a task that has always dissuaded us from renting a similar boat. In that PBS video Rick Steves never has a worry and now we know why: he was on a hotel canal barge much like the one we enjoyed for a week.

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Canal boat to Paris

For anyone with a good knowledge of French geography, you might know immediately where the Oise Valley is located. To give you some hints, a few of the significant towns in the area are Compiègne, Pont-Sainte-Maxence, and Saint-Leu-d’Esserent. Still no idea? Me neither, at least until I got out a map to see that it’s northwest of Paris and that, in fact, the Oise River originates in Belgium and flows south to join the Seine about 25 kilometers (15 miles) from the capital. The reason this became important was because Bill had been reading about cruising the canals of France on a péniche (in this case, a hotel barge) and one company was offering a 50% discount on some departures on this route. It was time to investigate what this valley had to offer.

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Canfranc Estación, a grand railway hotel

Although Bill and I are definite fans of rail travel, we seldom pay close attention to the station. For us it’s usually just the place to check the departure board and to pick up some buttery croissants or a freshly made sandwich to take onboard. If we’re changing trains along the way we might not even go inside the building; instead, we look at the display screen as we arrive to see from which platform our connection will be departing and then walk directly there. Oh sure, who wouldn’t notice the massive open interior of New York’s Grand Central Terminal, London’s impressive red brick facade of St. Pancras International, said to have been the world’s largest enclosed space when it opened in 1868, or the beautiful tile covered walls inside São Bento in Porto, depicting the history of Portugal. While we’ve seen those and one or two others that come to mind, we had never made travel plans specifically to route ourselves a particular way in order to visit a station…until we went to Canfranc, Spain.

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Carmen meets the Barber of Seville

We’re not opera fans but we can appreciate the history that accompanies them. Such was the case two weeks ago when we spent the weekend in Seville, Spain. During our time “down south” we had already spent a week revisiting Madrid before going on to see the Alhambra in Granada where the locals would say that flamenco got its start. Now it was time to move on to a place that might give that latter city a bit of competition in both the origin of the dance and the splendor of their Moorish palaces.

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Granada in 2 days

In a game of word association, you might match up Paris=Eiffel Tower, London=Big Ben or New York=Empire State Building. How about Granada, Spain? My guess is that Alhambra would come to mind. Perhaps it’s not as tall as those other iconic structures but it’s just as impressive with its vast complex that spreads across 14 hectares (35 acres) of gardens containing palaces, towers, and fortifications (today’s featured photo above). This masterpiece of Islamic art and architecture from the 13th and 14 centuries, is certainly why 2 million people visit it each year yet the ancient lower city, founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD has much to offer including the old Moorish quarter, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The 2 days that we were in town gave us the chance to explore both.

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