During the Covid lockdowns when one of the few reasons we could leave the house was to make essential purchases, Bill discovered a way to easily take care of one of those required items. A wine store was offering free delivery. We prefer to try new wines before we buy them but that wasn’t an option in those restricted times so we had to create our own tasting events at home for just the two of us. While getting the bottles to our front door was simple enough, deciding which ones to choose was more of a challenge since the store stocks wines from 1250 vintners who cultivate 49 different grape varieties. France lifted its state of emergency surrounding Covid on August 1 so now with all events in full operation it was time to visit this Cave à Vin in person during an evening they called an “Afterwork”. 

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In the UK we have seen highway signs proclaiming “Britain’s Tidiest Town”, “Tastiest Cuppa” for tea lovers, and even “Cleanest Loo”, all to indicate that a community had been awarded the nation’s top honor in a certain category. France has similar declarations that are proudly posted at the roadway entrance including “Most Beautiful in France”, “Village in Bloom”, “City of Art and History”, and “Active and Sportive”. The level of achievement, typically from 1 to 4, is indicated by the number of stars, flowers, Olympic laurels, or other appropriate symbols based on the theme of the award. Carcassonne has won many of these and thanks to the Tour de France that whizzed through town last weekend, we also have a bicycle emblem as a Ville à Vélo otherwise known as a City by Bike.

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While the French government has a minister in charge of ecology and one for renewable energy, those jobs are combined in Carcassonne with the Deputy Mayor for the Environment, Monsieur Arnaud Albarel. He announced several projects that the city would be undertaking this summer “in its fight for the preservation of biodiversity”. This includes redeveloping all municipal green spaces around parking lots, river and canal sides, and city buildings by using plants essential to pollinating insects, especially bees, plus instituting water-saving methods. For public involvement there are workshops to raise the awareness of young people to the importance of protecting the environment and a contest for residents to decorate their balconies and home fronts with window boxes. In addition to the positive ecological impact, these measures should ensure that Carcassonne maintains its status as a Ville Fleuri, that is, a City in Bloom.

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When we moved to Carcassonne 6 years ago it seemed as if we didn’t have a free weekend. There was always something to do. Naturally there was the city itself to discover but also food and wine fairs, art shows, craft sales, concerts, exhibits, tours, and walks all right on our doorstep to enjoy. As we developed friendships the invitations came for drinks, dinners, and outings of all sorts. That continued for the next few years until Covid arrived and as in the rest of the world everything stopped. During the first of the 3 lockdowns that France went through, even our outdoor fresh fruits and vegetables market was closed. Fortunately most of the restrictions have recently been lifted and the Lions Club Carcassonne Remparts took advantage last weekend of our newfound freedom to hold a Salon de Vins et Délices (Wine & Delights Show) with 20 exhibitors split evenly between wineries and artisanal food vendors. We went three times!

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Before “buy local” became a household phrase, people had long been doing exactly that in 10,000 open-air or covered marchés across France. We shop at our own market every Saturday morning as much for the fresh produce as for the environment—the smells, the bright colors, the excitement—and we always run into people we know. We see the same vendors week after week so now we have a rapport with them that allows for joking, a few words in English from the truly brave, and even a bonus handful of fruit or veg when they are feeling generous, as they always are. In addition to filling our refrigerator, we can also stock our shelves with eggs, cheese, nuts, olives, and bread, or pick up a rotisserie chicken for lunch. Much of what we see on display comes from the farms that encircle Carcassonne and now I see that there’s even honey from beehives that we pass when we walk along the river to get to the market. It doesn’t get much more local than that!

Continue reading “Honey, I’m home”