Carcassonne of the north + a favorite village

If you saw last week’s blog post you’ll know that we spent about a week on the northwest coast of France in the Pas-de-Calais departement in the city of Boulogne-sur-Mer. The object was to have some time to visit a part of the country that previously we’d only glimpsed from a railway carriage on our way from London to Paris, initially from a ferry port or years later after passing through the Channel Tunnel on the Eurostar. Once we’ve arrived in a city by train, our favorite method of transport is on foot, so we chose some destinations that were easily walkable from the station.

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Boulogne-sur-Mer + Wimereux

We knew of Boulogne-sur-Mer because on trips from the US to England years ago, it’s where we would arrive by ferry whenever we could “sneak” across the channel to get a taste of France. Once the Channel Tunnel opened, however, taking a train directly from London to Paris in a little over 2 hours, and maybe back that same evening, just made more sense. In those days, whether by ferry and train or later just by train, our destination was always the capital, so that coastal part of the country, known as Pas-de-Calais, remained unexplored by us. Now that we live here, there was time to go back to see what we had been missing in the port city and in the surrounding area.

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Our Parisian kindred spirits

Thank you John C. for sending us an article that appeared in the Wall Street Journal with the headline of, “What It’s Like to Retire in Paris”. It tells the story of Los Angeles couple Joe and his wife, who, on their 12th vacation in the beautiful French capital, decided that it was time to move there for retirement. They were both health professionals and had a correspondingly hectic life tied to making more and more money to maintain their lifestyle that included a house too large for their needs. Once the Covid restrictions were lifted, that big home and all of its contents went to the auction block and they were soon on their way to France. Our twin tale begins.

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Where to live that longer, healthier life

Although not directly related, I read two articles—one dealing with longevity and the other with the best cities for people over 60—that were published about the same time. Not only is life expectancy in France higher than it has ever been—85.6 years for women and 80 for men—it’s also healthier. For both genders, according to the government’s health statistics office, DREES, the proportion of disability-free life expectancy at age 65 has increased by at least 50% since 2008, meaning that over half of the years after 65 are expected to be healthy ones. However, even with universal healthcare where everyone should have equal access, some social inequities can still have an impact.

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Minerve and the Minervois

When Cherri and Ed asked us if we wanted to ride with them “into the Minervois” the answer was an easy, “Yes, please!” It’s a major wine region that begins just east of Carcassonne but since the vicinity no longer has any train stations, traveling in their rental car was going to be ideal. Our destination for this day out was the area’s historical capital, Minerve, a fortified medieval village located cliffside high above the canyons of the two rivers below. The bonus was that it’s a member of the organization “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France” that highlights especially beautiful communities throughout the country.

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Marseille soap

If you’re in Germany and you order a beer, you know that the beverage being served can only contain malt, hops, yeast, and water. That’s thanks to a Bavarian purity law, Reinheitsgebot, from 1516 that mandated the ingredients. In France, a similar concept applies to bars of Marseille soap; that is, originally only olive oil, plant ash, and water could be used. While the rules now allow other plant oils, manufacturing must still take place in this Mediterranean port city and each product should be stamped with the logo that guarantees its authenticity. We visited the Musée du Savon de Marseille to find out more.

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And they lived happily ever after

Three years ago we wrote a blog post about a survey of 10,000 French adults asking them about their level of satisfaction with where they were living. Nearly 80% of the respondents declared themselves “happy” and almost half of those were “very happy”. Now a different company has undertaken a similar study with an indication of where within the country you might find the most contentment. On average, that “happiness quotient” has increased to 86% with the region of Bretagne at the top and our own Occitanie right behind. Let’s look at some additional parts of the country and find out what makes an area attractive.

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