Sailing: Barcelona to Nice, part 1

Bill and I aren’t opposed to air travel but when given the option of getting there by train we are likely to go the “rail way”. One big draw for moving to Carcassonne was that we could get to many cities in France and Spain in a few hours plus into all the other surrounding countries that same day, arriving downtown in each one, just by walking to our own downtown train station. Getting to an island, however, would be a railroad challenge yet Bill spotted an advertisement that would let us visit the Balearic Islands off of Spain’s east coast without stepping inside an airplane. We were sailing to the islands!

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The canals of Provence

If you told someone to name a place in France, my guess is that the first answer from most people would be “Paris”. After all, this capital consistently appears at or near the top of the lists of most-visited cities. Another French location that’s likely to come to mind might be Provence. You could suddenly be transported to warm and sunny fields of lavender, vineyards, hilltop villages, outdoor markets full of fresh fruits and vegetables, delicious, leisurely meals at quaint sidewalk cafés. Thanks to the “Year in Provence” trilogy by Peter Mayle, followed by the TV series based on the first book, many of us were drawn to this beautiful area of France. Therefore, when we saw an advertisement for a canal cruise, “Provence—from Sète to Arles” we knew that was for us.

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Hometown tourist, part 1

Last week, 4 American friends whom we’ve known for over 30 years made their first trip to Carcassonne and we got to play tour guides. The local tourism office made our job pretty easy since among their publications are several maps, part of one of which we’ll cover today, and the second part next week, that highlight the “unmissables” in this city’s 2000 years of history. I’ll include a link to a pdf of that map at the end of this post. Their most recent flyer is called Circuit Art Déco/Art Nouveau and I want to devote a future blog post just to the buildings around town that reflect this beautiful period of architecture. 

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La Rochelle in 2 days

We read an online article that talked about a dozen cities and towns in France to visit during the winter. At the end of today’s post I’ll put the complete list that includes a couple of classic ski destinations, a few that you might think of as being only summer resorts, and one city we’d never been to despite wanting to do so for years. In the description of La Rochelle, author Evie Burrows-Taylor wrote that it’s “Full of arcaded walkways, half-timbered houses and more than its fair share of lighthouses…and in winter you won’t have to battle other tourists to appreciate it.” Given the “shoulder-to-shoulder” travel experiences that most of us have seen since those restrictions from the dark days of Covid were lifted, that final comment about not having to compete with others to enjoy the town was all that we needed to hear.

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Free for all

There’s been a lot in the news recently about train travel in Europe for this new year. Headlines have included, “Faster trains and cheaper tickets; 5 New European Train Routes; and, Europe’s night trains are making a comeback,” all aiming to show the benefits of new routes, lower costs, faster speeds, and lower emissions. We’ll see the beginning of sleeper services from Paris to Berlin plus Amsterdam to Prague with a direct service from there on to Budapest. Bordeaux will be linked directly to London with no changes required as will Barcelona to Geneva. While lower priced tickets will be good, “free” is even better and that was the topic of an article about travel in Luxembourg.

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One week on a hotel canal barge

There’s an episode of the PBS TV show, Rick Steves’ Europe, called “Burgundy, Profoundly French” where the host is gliding down a peaceful canal, sipping red wine, while telling us about how calm and serene life onboard can be. We now live within a few minutes’ walk of the Canal-du-Midi and during the season we typically see small house boats navigating the narrow waterway that, in conjunction with the Garonne River, connects the Atlantic Ocean with the Mediterranean Sea. If a family has rented the boat, usually one of the parents is at the helm and in our minds, at least, wondering when their next challenge will arrive: the lock that they themselves might have to operate to get to the next higher or lower level of the canal, a task that has always dissuaded us from renting a similar boat. In that PBS video Rick Steves never has a worry and now we know why: he was on a hotel canal barge much like the one we enjoyed for a week.

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Canal boat to Paris

For anyone with a good knowledge of French geography, you might know immediately where the Oise Valley is located. To give you some hints, a few of the significant towns in the area are Compiègne, Pont-Sainte-Maxence, and Saint-Leu-d’Esserent. Still no idea? Me neither, at least until I got out a map to see that it’s northwest of Paris and that, in fact, the Oise River originates in Belgium and flows south to join the Seine about 25 kilometers (15 miles) from the capital. The reason this became important was because Bill had been reading about cruising the canals of France on a péniche (in this case, a hotel barge) and one company was offering a 50% discount on some departures on this route. It was time to investigate what this valley had to offer.

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