Luxembourg City

Along the US coasts we’ve been from Key West, Florida to Maine’s border with Canada, from Vancouver, BC to Tijuana, Mexico and in the UK it was from Land’s End in England to the top of Scotland’s mainland at John o’Groats. In France we’ve traveled from the Pyrenees Mountain tunnel that joins us to Spain all the way up to Roubaix on the edge of Belgium. Now we can add one more border-to-border journey to our list, this time in the country of Luxembourg from Esch-sur-Alzette in the south to Troisvierges in the north. In America we were in a car while on this side of the Atlantic it’s been by train, as was this most recent vacation, but this time there was one big difference—the cost. The fare to go from one end of one of Europe’s smallest (but wealthiest) countries to the other end was 0 €.

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Let the music play

Next Saturday will be the annual Fête de la Musique all over the country. From the smallest villages to the biggest cities in France, organized events share the space with spontaneous pop-up celebrations among neighbors to “make the party” as they might say here. One year we happened to be in Bordeaux on June 21. From our vacation rental balcony we could look to the left (photo in this paragraph) and see revelers spilling out of restaurants and bars, filling the street and to our right where a dozen apartment dwellers were beckoning us to join them on the sidewalk below where they had set up a DJ booth and a table top bar. Guess where we ended up?

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The cost of (still) living

Being a positive person, I was surprised when I saw the title of a study conducted by Silver Alliance and Retraite.com, both French companies that investigate topics important to senior citizens. They called, what seems to have become their annual survey, “How much does it cost to be old in France?” When we ask friends a question that might not have a definitive answer, the response we typically hear is, “Ça dépend” (That depends) which I think could apply here depending upon your definition of “old”. We’ll look at the details below but for a cut-to-the-chase answer, you’ll need an annual income of 15,000€ to live a comfortable retired life in France.

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Medieval bedrooms

Ah, the good ol’ days of life in a European castle in the Middle Ages from the 5th to the 15th centuries. Knights in shining armor, damsels in distress, jousting, banquets, roaming troubadours, court jesters. But what about widespread disease like the plague, daily hard labor, war, violence, superstition, fear? Perhaps the one place in your home where you could retreat to escape all of the misery surrounding you would be the bedroom. However, a recently translated book on the subject suggests the opposite, especially if you were a peasant so your “castle” would have been a one-room shelter made from hastily-stacked stones or woven sticks and mud with a straw roof. If you were lucky you might have owned a farm animal that, of course, would have shared your living quarters with you.

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Sleeping in a château

My brother and sister-in-law are very generous. Every year they go on a chartered catamaran cruise and always invite us along as their guests. We’ve never taken them up on their offer until this year but it wasn’t on the water. In what you might call a “land cruise” we were being treated to an all-inclusive—accommodation, meals, drinks, and excursions—five days at the 17th century Château Alizés at Le Chaufourg in the Périgord area of southwestern France. Although Bill and I have been lucky enough to have vacationed with friends in three other châteaux around this country and Ireland, on those vacations we all had to do our own cooking, bartending, driving and tour guiding. Now that was all about to change. 

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Affordable cities

The newspaper, Le Parisien, frequently publishes rankings and reports on various topics related to lifestyle, travel, and quality of life. I’ve seen headlines that start with “The best…” and continue with “places to live; to buy property; for families or students or retirees; to go on vacation” generally with the focus being on France. The news source The Local France had a story about the paper’s analysis of a government report concerning the most affordable cities around the country based upon your income. There were 3 financial levels and the top 15 locations are below. 

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Monet’s Giverny

One advantage to living in France is that you’re never really all that far from Paris. In about  5 ½ hours we can travel from our downtown train station to one in the nation’s capital and walk from there to a hotel for that evening. With a dozen daily departures we can take our pick to be there for a 12:30 PM lunch, a 3:00 PM hotel check-in, or a 7:00 PM dinner. An overnight sleeper train would arrive in plenty of time for breakfast. That convenience means that it’s possible to make a connection and continue to a further destination such as Brittany, Champagne, or even London or Amsterdam. For today’s adventure we stayed in Paris but made a day trip into Normandy to spend the morning walking in the footsteps of artist Claude Monet in his beloved gardens of Giverny.

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